Warm blanket, cozy couch, dawn’s creeping through the curtains slowly replacing the glare of last night’s streetlight. As I rise with the sunshine of my life, I have to pause her to take a call: Montaigne, 10H30 ça marche? Out into the cold to arrange a plate and recover from the effects of sore muscles and a slow mind. While I finish up drinking in the rest of that invigorating cup of beauty and take in the last bit of sunny-side up I grab that towel and jog off into the rain to catch that much needed tram.
Salut. Ça va? Ouais et toi? This rough looking man of an estimated 46, a man whom I have encountered twice in my life offered me a solid board and led me to the Best Volkswagen Vanagon imaginable. This monstrosity was equipped with stove-top, sink, table, queen size, and Ben Harper.
Sur la route, we pass that which has become of France. Campgrounds, Vacation houses, lessons for every endeavor that lay dormant until the summer months, pass by as we head west. Stories bounce back and forth with miscommunication flying everywhere. He’s met Kelly, he loves the Portuguese surf, he has three daughters, wait this phlegmatician is a family man?
Boar hunting, fishing, woods, am I back on Mauka-side Hawaii? The emotions run deep, as I’m afraid to leave this home that I’m seeing for the first time; at which, point I remember I am only at the surface and I do have a place being kept warm across the Atlantic.
Carcan! Excitement is only stifled slightly with a blast of cool wind and freezing temperatures. Il fait quoi? 8 degrees, et 12 dans l’eau. Ground conditions at the waterfront revealed solid off shores with dumpy little double-ups of about 4 feet. Inside I am jumping from the stoke, while I shake to keep from freezing. Suit on, waxed up I head out with two locals on patrol, grab a slow looking left that pitched ever so hastily at the top; it was the obvious choice of wave after a month of my waterless hiatus. By an act of god I made the drop and a turn before it closed, the rest of the session followed in similar fashion. A quick pee and deck change before I clamber with my clumsy numbness into the holy vanagon for a bit of defrosting. The ice came off my companion as well he was all smiles.
With a slight interrogation of my future, I explained my realization of university, “ Il fait quoi?”. What am I expected to do with my degree and what does it give me? It was a great four years of self-realization, and awakening, but I am tooless in a society bent, founded on creation and innovation. He seemed to warm further and I can call this man a friend. A la semaine prochaine? Ouais et bon weekend. I remount that tram, back to the foreign, back to the apartment.
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